Why is a Safari to Africa so expensive?
October 20, 2023A visit to KENYA, EAST AFRICA – well worth the trip!
For 8 days alongside 2 other travel mad gurus, I visited a part of Africa that has always been on my bucket list, Kenya! Previously, I had sold many Safari Packages to clients into the various Kenyan National Parks, but felt like a cheat having not been there myself. I was so excited when it was finally my turn as part of an educational tour.
Arriving in the Jomo Kenyatta airport, the first thing that struck me was the whiteness of the teeth. Peoples’ smiles were so broad and genuine that I immediately felt comfortable in my new surroundings. Tourism plays a huge role in the country’s economy. It contributes KES588.6 billion (US$5.9 billion) to Kenya’s GDP. From the airport we were transported into the bustling city of Nairobi by our brilliant driver-guide called Francis. Besides his excellent driving skills, this man was a constant source of knowledge. Better than Wikipedia!
We visited an array of beautiful hotels close to the airport. There was one for every budget but all had spacious, modern rooms. I particularly enjoyed the Ole Sereni Hotel, which borders onto the Nairobi National Park. The rooms are very traditional with great pieces of tribal paintings exhibited on the walls. It is close to both the International and Domestic (Wilson) airport. I also loved the relaxed atmosphere of the Tamarind Tree Hotel which is situated within the grounds of the famous Carnivore restaurant. It was here I sipped my first Dawa drink. The Dawa (medicine) cocktail was invented at the Carnivore restaurant. It was inspired by the Brazilian caipirinha, a cocktail made with the cane-sugar spirit cachaça. Bartenders complained of morning-after headaches from the cachaça and started subbing in vodka. Carnivore’s bartenders began testing their new drink on guests; and one of them, who happened to be their landlord, was a fan. He asked for another, referring to it as his dawa (medicine). The name stuck and so did the cocktail, which is now found all over Kenya.
Day 1, we visited nine different hotels which ranged from 4 to 5 Star. I’d highly recommend lunch at the Radisson Blue hotel which was an extravagant affair.
The parks on our itinerary were, Samburu National Park, Lewa Conservancy, Shaba National Reserve, Lake Nakuru National Park, Lake Naivasha and the most famous of all; Masai Mara National Park.
Day 2, we headed north. Our destination was Samburu National Park which was 330kms away and took us a good part of 6 hours to get there. We passed Mount Kenya on the way, but she was feeling rather shy, having pulled her blanket of clouds around her. It was in Samburu and Lewa National Park that we came across new species of wild life. As an African myself, I believed I knew quite a lot about African wildlife, so you can imagine my astonishment to be introduced to a few new sub-species of animals such as the Somalian Ostrich, Gerenuk antelope, Grevy Zebra and Reticulated Giraffe.
October to November is known as the small rain season, however, we experienced a lot more than usual. OMG, we crossed over streams that had turned into rivers and I was so thankful that Francis was not only an experienced driver but had nerves of steel. I am not a Sissie but there were times when even I, had to close my eyes and say a quick prayer.
Day 2 and 3 took us through 9 beautiful properties within the Samburu and Lewa National Park. One simply cannot fault any of the accommodation. The staff and management are top notch with lots of fabulous stories to go around. My top 2 establishments would be Elephant Bedroom in Samburu and Lewa Safari Camp – Elewana.
Day 4 was a long day and we left Lewa National Park early and headed South West towards Lake Naivasha. One thing is for sure, when staying at all the lodges, there is no lack of food. When you leave the camps early in the morning they hand you a breakfast pack in a box big enough for an enonormous cake. It’s a lucky dip full of all sorts of freshly made goodies. I was as happy as a kid snacking away in the back seat on a family driving holiday.
Wild animals were prolific in all the National Parks we visited. I was so happy to see 5 Rhino in one park including both the Black and White Rhino. These magnificent animals exhibited their long horns with pride. The Kenyan government has eventually realised the long-term benefits of eco-tourism to the country and if anyone is caught poaching, it is now the death penalty!
We lunched at Lolida House which is an original Kenyan home, set on an old farm on the shores of Lake Naivasha. The lake was filled with the cry of fish eagles, so beautiful and melancholic. This is my favourite bird and hearing their cry flooded me with happy child hood memories. Lolida house is conveniently located for day trips to the famous Lake Nakuru National Park and Hell’s Gate.
That night we stayed at Sopa Lodge which is set in 150 acres of grasslands teeming with wild life . I enjoyed my stay here. The food was hearty and staff went out of there way. For a 3 Star establishment it was excellent. I always suggest to our clients to stay in this area for 2 nights, so they can visit Hell’s Gate and Lake Nakuru National Park.
Hell’s Gate is named for the intense geothermal activity within its boundaries. The Hell’s Gate National Park is a remarkable quarter of the Great Rift Valley. Spectacular scenery including the towering cliffs, water-gouged gorges, stark rock towers, scrub clad volcanoes and belching plumes of geothermal steam make it one of the most atmospheric parks in Africa. It can be visited along with Lake Nakuru where you can see the endangered White Rhino. You may even be able to snap a shot of them with flocks of flamingos and the Lake in the background. Lake Nakuru is a must-see for any avid birder. Not only will you witness the spectacle of up to two million Greater and Lesser Flamingos, there are also many other water birds, most notably pelicans, herons and storks that call the lake home.
Day 5 and 6, we visited the Masai Mara. Twenty minutes after entering the National Park we came across a mother cheetah and her 8 cubs. This was an extraordinary event as it was the first time ever a female cheetah was witnessed to have so many cubs. It was encouraging to see a surveillance vehicle following her to ensure that help was on hand to protect all the cubs. Statistically, only one cub will survive a normal litter of 3. How was this mama cheetah going to feed and protect 8? .
The plains of the Masai Mara were a slip-sliding affair and I have huge respect for Landrovers which got us out of a few sticky situations. We even had to pull other vehicles out of the muddy terrain. I loved all the lodges that we visited in the Mara but do give a special shout out to my top 2, being Mara Bush Camp and Little Governors Camp.
We flew out from the Masai Mara onto Wilson Airport where we connected a flight onto Ukundu Diani Beach which took just over an hour in flight. It was so good to be on the coast and to experience humidity and have no rain. I would highly recommend one of the many establishments at Diani Beach to conclude your holiday after a Safari. Its the perfect place to unwind, enjoy the warm turquoise Indian ocean and to hear the squeak of the super fine sand under your feet. We visited 8 properties and all of them were superb. Some were big resorts, great for families and others were more boutique villa type accommodation. My top 2 would be The Sands Nomad Hotel and Neptune Palm Beach Hotel.
Every time I visit Africa, I fall deeper in love with the artists and designers who create magic in all of the establishments we visited.
Saying goodbye to my travelling guru family, I stayed an extra night in Nairobi so I could visit the famous Elephant Orphanage. It was a landmark that was on my bucket list and having read “An African Love Story” written by Daphne Sheldrick intrigued me and I had to visit. A typical day for the late Daphne Sheldrick, involved rescuing baby elephants from poachers; finding homes for orphan elephants, all the while campaigning the ever-present threat of poaching for the ivory trade.
I was like an excited kid, driving out to the orphanage and did not let the constant drizzle of rain dampen my enthusiasm. What a delight to see all the baby elephants come charging through into a cornered off area. They only had eyes for their handler who was holding out their bottle of milk.
It’s hard to believe that I saw and experienced so much in just 8 short days. In total, we saw 45 properties and travelled 1400 kilometres. Travelling so far in such a short space of time is exhausting, but when you are constantly rewarded with such beautiful scenery and extraordinary wildlife you barely notice it. Exhausting but oh so satisfying!
All photos are taken by yours truly.
